Live like Jay
I came across this 2001 copy of @surfingmagazine while clearing my place. I somehow hung on to it through several moves, a change of currency (from francs to euros) and 15 years of life on earth.
The cover featured a survey of #groms & their idea of the future of #surfing, which they got pretty right, from the public profile of the sport to the growth of #bigwavesurfing, their idea of #equalrights and media coverage for #womensurfing still painfully slowly to materialise... In a faux study about the difference between #grommets & gremlins, a tiny @john_john_florence is mentioned in passing as the #kingofgroms. 16-year-old @gerglong gets a couple of pages after winning the #openmens #NNSA Nationals. Cheerios are mentioned.
What I suspect triggered my keeping the mag is #jaymoriarity, whose accidental death at the age of 23 somehow resonated with me. Little did i know then that his love for big wave surfing would be portrayed by Hollywood, let alone in a film featuring... Greg Long as an elder (#chasingmavericks). And little did i know that all 3 would end up on the same illustrious list of #eddieaikau invitees, with froglet winning last year's trophy. #surfing has a way with keeping us connected... (@_laurence_b)
#tbt #throwback #LiveLikeJay
Jay, Greg and John-John
Chief Storyteller at Swellbound
