Chicama, the famous left

"We arrived in the middle of the pitch-black night, surrounded by the warm desert air: sweaty, tired, excited.

The darkness made it impossible to figure out the size of the #waves crashing only a few meters away from us, increasing our already high anticipation. Tomorrow morning we would wake up and the long-awaited surprise will be revealed...The Famous #Left....

Like kids on Christmas Day, our eyes popped out with the first rays of the sunlight. Stepping out to our balcony while inhaling the salty sea breeze, there it appeared, right in front of us: #Chicama! The longest wave in the world. 2.2km sheer joy in the best days, a couple of hundreds at worst. A natural machine: #wave after wave breaking evenly, closing predictably, rolling into the endlessness. Nothing else like I had seen before... Groups of Brazilians, French, Spanish, English - we all made an attempt at taking our shares during the day, but the local kids snatched most of it which we didn't even mind - watching them playing with this blue-green magic like their favourite everyday toy was an inspiration on its own. Not surprising, almost all of them were #goofy. I guess that's just unavoidable growing up with the longest left in your backyard... :-)"
✒: @uchuva 📷: Jesus Florian "El Zorro" - Malabrigo Left Fotos
#freesurfspirit

natural wave machine